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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Why should I choose PDR?
PDR is a faster
method of repair than conventional systems. Most dings can be repaired
while you wait, and larger dents in one day instead of several. In the
vast majority of cases, PDR will be less expensive. A door ding today
requires a few hours labor to repair the ding, and about $300 to $500 of
paint work to blend into the adjoining panels. PDR is the only method
of repair which keeps your factory finish intact. We use no fillers,
putty, paint, primers, or solvents. Not only do these products have
some degree of future failure rate, such as paint fade, putty shrinkage,
visible blends, and more, but PDR is 100% environmental friendly! We
use no toxic materials. A repair with PDR is the closest thing to the
damage never happening in the first place. When people are considering
purchasing your vehicle, or taking it in trade and see telltale
overspray, signs of repair work, or replaced parts, they automatically
assume the worst that the vehicle was in a wreck. Even if you only had
a few dings repaired conventionally and the paint work is detected, you
raise red flags to the buyer.
Will
PDR damage my paint?
No. Today’s
factory paints are extremely rugged and will bend back as the metal is
massaged back into place. After market paint on the other hand, will
usually withstand the procedure, but because there are so many unknown
factors with its application, mixing, and preparation work, there is no
absolute knowing how non factory paints will react. In EXTREME cases
where the metal is stretched or has a deep crease, there might be a
chance the paint will crack, but any experienced technician will inform
the owner before beginning any such repair of the risk.
Are
all dents repairable with PDR?
No. And overall
size is not always the deciding factor. Access to the back side of the
dent is a major influence. The other is depth to width ratio. If the
dent is as deep or is deeper than it is wide, this means the metal is
stretched and the paint integrity has been compromised. Master
technicians have ways of shrinking the metal back up in most cases, but
not always. Some examples would be a pellet gun shot, the full weight
of the vehicle rolling into the end of a steel pipe railing, or a
vehicle dragging itself against the side of another. These will all
stretch the metal. If the paint is already broken, this destroys the
reflective image the technician uses in the repair process, and makes it
more difficult or impossible to fix 100%
Should
I try making the dent smaller with a plunger or tool?
ABSOLUTELY NOT!
Some people think they are going to save some money by making their dent
smaller. Any technician who knows his trade will usually refuse to work
on a dent someone else has already worked on. There are exact
procedures adhered to in large dent repair, and a lot of preparation
goes into a panel before the technician will ever start to push on it.
If you attempt this on your own, you will most likely lock up the
pressure and make the dent not repairable by PDR. At this point, drive
directly to the body and paint shop.
Will
my dents come back in heat or cold?
No. Once they are repaired with
PDR, only another impact will dent the metal again. They will not
return on their own or because of any climate change.
Will I
save money on my lease return?
Yes. Most likely
if there are dings or dents that the average owner sees, the inspection
will pick them up as well. Unless they are very minor, they will
probably go beyond “Normal wear and tear” and you will be liable for
them. Most lease returns are bought at auction by car dealers who have
a PDR tech go over them before they are put back up for resale. The
odds are that you will lose more money by not having them repaired on
your own before turning the vehicle in.
Do you
give volume discounts?
Yes. If you
examine our price chart you will see that if there is more than one dent
on the same panel, all those after the first one are repaired at a
minimal fee due to the fact that access has already been achieved to
that panel. |